Lake Ohrid has to be one of my all-time favourite destinations. It’s in the east of North Macedonia. Think crystal blue water, watching sunsets from boats with your hostel friends, cheap lakeside coffees and sunrise swims. It’s a budget backpackers dream – with amazing hostels, cheap food and drink, loads of activities, free beaches and plenty of walks.
Accomodation
First things first: accomodation. There are three main hostels in Ohrid and (long story) I’ve stayed at all of them for varying lengths of time! I would highly recommend both Old Town hostel and Blue Lake.
Old Town Hostel Ohrid was the one I stayed in first for a few days and would have 100% spent my entire time there had they not been booked up! Lovely rooms (with curtains), such a sociable atmosphere, free coffee on entry, very friendly staff and hostel activities available. I really can’t overstate how good the social atmosphere here was either – we hired a boat with 8 others from the hostel to watch sunset, went out for a meal and cocktails with a group of us another night, and ended up in a latin bar across the lake on our last night here. Vibes = 10/10. Would recommend to anyone.
Blue Lake Hostel, Ohrid was also fantastic, although I didn’t stay long enough to be able to have a proper experience here. However on the one night I stayed – such friendly staff, great hostel showers and free homemade watermelon cocktail in the common room. (Giving me free cocktails is a huge plus for hostels by the way. Definitely elevates my opinion of them.)
Activities and Itinerary
There is genuinely so so much to do in Ohrid! Especially if you want to spend a few days swimming and chilling by the lake, you are all set for a good 3-4 days in Ohrid that’ll still leave you wanting to return.
Day 1 – Arrive, Explore, Swim
Fairly easy first day – you’ll most likely be arriving on a bus from Skopje, the capital. There’s a bit of a walk into the main town from the bus station but it’s easy enough. Plus – coffee stops. North Macedonia is a great place for eating and having coffee out as it’s so cheap. Get a coffee on your way in before you drop your bags off at the hostel then head straight down the lake. It’s best to walk a bit further (closer to the church or even round) if you want quieter beaches. However, when I say quieter, if you’ve been to Albanian beaches it will all seem quieter so sat reading and dipping lakeside if you can find somewhere for your towel is absolutely amazing wherever along that stretch.The town itself isn’t massive but it’s still worth a walk to orientate yourself around – and to have a look about for some restaurants (head further back from the lake if you want cheaper restaurants).
Day 2 – Boat Trip around the Lake + Sunset from the Church
It has to be done – boating across the lake, exploring the Bay of Bones and going over to Nuam monastery. Amazing day. You’ve got two options by boat: the cheaper, larger boat or a smaller boat. I personally (as a budget traveller) would recommend the larger boat as you also know exactly how long you’re going to have at each stop. (Nothing to do with the fact I also needed a sleep on the boat on the way back and on the top deck of a huge boat was a great way to achieve it). That aside, the large boat felt like a full day trip in budget style.
Finally: sunset. In classic Ohrid style, you have to head up to the old church, go inside, have a look around and watch the sun set over the lake from that viewpoint. If you’re coming in high season in the middle of summer sunset may be after the church closes so check your timings.
Day 3 – Tour of the Fortress and Churches
Step 1: get a map. Step 2: you’ll be able to see the route that you can see about 3 churches, the fortress and loads of other cool archaeological stuff if you walk round it. Especially in midsummer, I would recommend an early morning (I had a sunrise swim) and then going round the walking loop and visiting the places you want to so you can have another afternoon eating ciabatta and swimming. If you can’t tell – I loved this day, but it did focus around when I could next swim.
I would also recommend getting a group together and watching sunset from one of the boats. Some hostels organise tours but also if you have around 10 of you you’ll be paying around 15 euro each to get a private boat (BYOB) and sail out to watch sunset.
Day 4 (Optional) – Hike
Unfortunately, I didn’t get round to this (and also due to my aversion of hitchhiking) BUT if you don’t mind hitchhiking some of the way and fancy a hike, then great! There are a few routes about 20km away from the town – ask the hostel owners for maps and more info! Or spend another day chilling by the lake. Either works.
Other Important Notices
The snakes. Yes, they’re in the water. Yes, the first time I saw them I did panic. I did some googling and apparently they’re harmless (no one else seemed fazed so I assumed it was okay?) However, please also fact check this, and maybe don’t head in if you have a HUGE fear of snakes. They are quite cute when you realise they’re okay though.
Food and Drink
What would a post on wanderlustandarucksack be without mentioning food? Don’t think I could do one. So, for Ohrid specifically:
Liquid Cafe Bar, Ohrid Best Ciabatta/Sandwich EVER. Go for their Macedonian sandwich and iced coffee for lunch, sit outside by the lake and you’ll be so glad you came. (Side note: reading the tripadvisor reviews linked I’ve just realised this may also be a bar/club? Go check it out late night too then I guess?)
Restaurant Recommendation: Honestly, go further back from the lake for cheaper restaurants and still good quality food: there are SO many. However if you want to go by the lake, Belvedere is one that has a good ambience and liked by both locals and tourists (recommended by hostel owner). I would say though, it’s not expensive but it’s also not budget friendly for North Macedonia’s usual prices.
More North Macedonia!?!
YES! It’s a stunning country – I’ve already been back to go to Ohrid and I still want to return. Everyone is so friendly, so welcoming and it’s a great place to solo travel, take a group, take family and travel as a pair. One of my favourite countries, hands down. More North Macedonia articles here:
Skopje: What to do and Why to Visit North Macedonia’s Capital
What can I wear as a girl travelling to North Macedonia?
