The Dolomites have absolutely exploded in popularity over the last few years, and I have to say they did not disappoint. I had three or four days of waking up for a coffee and pistachio croissant, running up mountains, swimming in the lake and then drinking limoncello at sunset (homemade out of a pan). I even took cheese and bread on one of my trail runs for a scenic sandwich at the top of Mount Cimone.
So, assuming that’s pursuaded you to go (and why wouldn’t it?), here’s what you need to know.
Getting to the Dolomites
The good news: you can get the train basically all the way from Venice!
The bad news: as we discovered on the way back, sometimes the trains have strikes and you’re kind of stranded.
Okay, simply put – just make sure you plan in advance, have at least two trains you can get and a backup plan. To get back, we arrived aiming for the 7 am train (which was cancelled). We then got on a 7:45 bus to one of the larger towns nearer to Venice and got a train from there that we would have used anyway. You’ll be able to make it, just give yourself plenty of time. And a massive bonus is that whether you train or bus, its stunning scenery. This was a kind of ‘headphones in, stare out the window for hours and I won’t get bored’ sort of journey.
If you’re looking for an exact route (to Levico Terme, which is where we stayed): Venice – Bassano del Grapa – Levico Terme
The train from Venice to Bassano runs about every 30 mins to an hour, and if for whatever reason the train from Bassano to Levico Terme isn’t running try the bus B450.
Flixbus is theoretically an option here (anyone who knows me knows my minor Flixbus obsession, especially in the Balkans) but here it just seemed expensive and inconvenient so probably use it as a last resort. Stick to the more public transport rather than what’s clearly set up for tourists.
What to do in Levico Terme, The Dolomites?
I appreciate trail running isn’t for everyone, but I loved my few days in the mountains running. Great news is that the trails that I ran on are also great hiking trails. So, if you’re staying in Levico Terme for a few days, any of the mountains below are also hikeable. And obviously the lake swimming, pedalos and coffee shops are a given!
Monte Cimone – route of around 17.5km, 1100m ascent
I LOVED this route. Such good views, such a fun descent and felt like proper trail running. I also took my cheese and bread up which meant a stunning lunch. You could also cut this route down slightly by maybe 4/5 km on the way back, or drive to the very foot of the mountain.
To San Cristoforo al Lago – route of around 12 km, 250m ascent
Lovely chill run, went to the other lake and hired paddleboards and pedalos (and had cheap wine). Then a regular-ish bus back to Levico. Such a good day and very easy hiking or running if you want to avoid too much uphill.
Compet (up the big hill and back down) – route of around 20km, 1100m ascent
Okay the best part about this is when you’re in the town of Compet, which is at the top of the hill, you can get ice cold drinks and
The actual town of Levico Terme
The town is small but so pretty – and 2 euro coffee in most shops so its kind of a must. There are also some really nice gardens and a pretty church – basically just go for a stroll, get lost in the old streets and drink coffee. Pretty simple afternoon plan.
Do I need to be a huge hiker or runner to go?
Absolutely not! I mean I wouldn’t attempt a 20km run or hike if you’ve not got some experience simply from a safety and enjoyment perspective but there are so many smaller walks round the lakes too. You can also alternate between lake days and walking days if you’ve got the time.
What do I need to take?
I just took my small carry on bag as per usual!
- Hiking boots or trail shoes
- Swimwear
- Running/hiking tops
- Shorts
- 2 x town/casual outfits
- Sunglasses
- Suncream
- Bumbag/rucksack to hike with
PLUS obviously all your documents/medication/washbag/passports – the usual travel stuff!
My personal views on the Dolomites for solo travellers
I loved the Dolomites and going with a group (my uni running group) was an amazing experience and I am SO glad I went. However, I did not see any hostels if you’re solo travelling – this isn’t to say there aren’t any, just that it wasn’t evident in Levico Terme. If you’re wanting a solo travel hiking trip with Dolomites vibes, I would really recommend having a look at the Albanian Alps (Northern Albania – linked here: Valbona-Theth Hike. They’re pretty cheap, a bit more remote but with SO many solo travellers. One of my best friends also just got from a 10 day solo trip hiking in the Balkans so it’s definitely doable, I just don’t think where I was in the Dolomites is the perfect place to be hiking solo and sociable!
